Name: Rare Art Deco 14k 0.12 VS1 Diamond Double Arrow Sûreté Jabot Pin
SKU: 1449891

General Information:

Total Carat Weight: 0.12 ctw
Precious Metal Weight: 2.84 dwt
Precious Metal Material: 14k yellow gold with raised white gold diamond mountings
Dimensions: Overall, 71.23 mm east to west/point to point (length) x 14.21 mm north to south (width) not including the dropped safety chain
Weight: A very nice 4.42 grams
Markings: No markings present
Era: The brooch’s styling, prong type, function and construction technique point to the height of the Art Deco years. Thus, we estimate that this piece dates to the late 1920s to 1930s. Without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enables us to determine.
Buyer Notes: The construction of this piece shows us that it is very likely of hand fabrication. The six diamonds are held by prongs within raised, white gold triangular segments which are soldered atop their respective yellow gold arrow backings. Please be sure to browse ALL photos to perceive its composition. The diamonds within are high quality, bright white and sparkly, the perfect understated touch to the sumptuous gold. Keep in mind that this is an antique brooch, and as such shows its time-earned wear including areas of natural patina (this may be buffed off, though we leave it intact because of its collector desirability), and some slight waviness of the stem. Prospective buyers, keep in mind that the stem DOES close and stay shut and does not fall off on its own, though for utmost security, press firmly to wear, and have fixtures checked by your trusted jeweler prior to any consistent, frequent wear. This is a very rare jewel, and ought to be minded as such!

Specifications:

Center Stone Type: Diamond
Center Stone Count: Six (6)
Center Stone Dimensions: two diamonds are approx. 1.85 mm and four diamonds are approx. 1.55 mm
Center Stone Carat Weight by Formula: Corresponding to the above, two diamonds are 0.024 ct each and four diamonds are 0.017 each; all inclusive, 0.12 ctw
Center Stone Shape: Early Brilliant cut (Transitional/Circular Brilliant)
Center Stone Color: H-I
Center Stone Clarity: VS1-VS2

The Story:

Crafted during the height of the Art Deco period, this late 1920s brooch features a double arrowhead design and a horizontal orientation. This style pin is known as both a sûreté (French for “safety”) pin and jabot pin, the term jabot describing the ornamental fabric at the neckline of a man or woman’s garment that is often pleated or ruffled. Sûreté brooches (with safety chains present) are meant to be pinned horizontally across the collar points, in front of the collar band, so that the stem of the brooch is hidden and gives the appearance of “floating” matching jeweled ends on both collar points.

Some, but not all, sûreté pins maintain their original safety chains, as does the present brooch. This delicate addition is designed to ensure that if one end becomes loose while worn, it safely catches and avoids a lost component. When safety chains exist on sûreté pins, they elegantly swing atop the collar band between the points. In similar fashion, jabot pins are designed to be worn vertically, with the dominantly jeweled end worn on top, and the lesser jeweled end worn on bottom. The intent of this jewel type is to secure a cravat or ascot, or to adorn a lapel.

Just like stick pins, these brooch styles were popular amongst both men and women during the first quarter and a half of the 20th century, contrary to the common misperception that brooches were exclusively a woman’s accessory. Rather, such glittering embellishments were badges of status, and enhanced and added variety to one’s wardrobe. As well, these brooches are imbued with rich symbolism and convey hidden meanings, as does all antique jewelry:

This brooch is quite sizable, a classic and clean design that reflects the strong geometries for which the Jazz Age is much beloved. Both ends are arrow-shaped, specifically recalling the straight broadhead arrowhead, a kind of barbed point that was prevalent during the medieval era for hunting. Historically, arrows are a tangible sign of divine love match-made in the heavens. In notable irony, arrows are weapons designed to pierce the heart, expressions of the ecstasy of true love’s sting. When jewelry exhibits a duo of symbols, in this case arrows, the beauty of partnership is honored;pairs speak to chosen affection, unity and undying devotion.