General Information:

• Total Carat Weight:  14.72 ctw
• Precious Metal Weight: Estimated 3.1 dwt or so 
• Precious Metal Material:  14k yellow gold stem with 14k white gold geometric engraved mountings and female closure
• Dimensions:  When measured in the closed/secured position, this jabot is about 102.9 mm/4.05 inches end to end (length) x 22.2 mm/0.87 inch wide x 5.45 mm/0.21 inch deep
• Weight:  An very nice heft of 5.68 grams 
• Markings: No markings present
• Era:  The brooch’s styling, prong type, function and construction technique point to the height of the Art Deco years. Thus, we estimate that this piece dates to the 1920s, possibly the early 1930s. Without knowing an exact provenance, we cannot ascertain a more precise date range beyond what our years of collecting, dealing, learning and refining our expertise enables us to determine. 
• Buyer Notes:  A remarkably rare statement jewel, this quintessential Art Deco accessory is very scarce on the market and, in suit, very collectible. Prospective buyers, please note that one faceted clear crystal bead and the coordinating spherical black nephrite bead bear chips, as pictured and indicated with the arrows shown. Neither bead appears jeopardized, and neither chip is readily visible to the unaided eye, but are worth noting for buyer transparency. 

Specifications:

• Center Stone Type: Carnelian (agate)
• Center Stone Count:  Two (2)
• Center Stone Dimensions:  The clasp (female) end carnelian measures about 21.74 x 22.11 x 2.61 mm, and the primary (male) end measures about 21.98 x 22.21 x 2.62 mm
• Center Stone Carat Weight:  11.65 ctw together; the clasp (female) end carnelian is about 5.85 ct, and the primary (male) end carnelian is about 5.80 ct, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of agate
• Center Stone Shape:  Hand-carved open/dimensional annular disc
• Center Stone Color:  Orangey-red
• Center Stone Clarity:  Translucent

• Center Stone Type:  Black Nephrite (tests as nephrite OR jadeite, but research and trained knowledge suggest it is not the latter, as the latter commands as much as $3 million USD per carat!)
• Center Stone Count:  Two (2)
• Center Stone Dimensions:  The clasp (female) end nephrite measures about 5.12 mm, and the primary (male) end nephrite measures about 4.45 mm
• Center Stone Carat Weight:  1.83 ctw together; the clasp (female) end nephrite is about 1.10 ct, and the primary (male) end nephrite is about 0.73 ct, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of nephrite
• Center Stone Shape:  Hand-carved spherical bead
• Center Stone Color:  Black
• Center Stone Clarity: Opaque with naturally waxy luster and high-polished surface finish

• Side Stone Type: Rock Crystal
• Side Stone Count:  Four (4)
• Side Stone Dimensions:  The clasp (female) end crystals measure about 1.20 x 4.64 mm and 1.30 x 5.03 mm, and the primary (male) end crystals measure about 1.26 x 4.71 mm and 1.30 x 4.70 mm
• Side Stone Carat Weight:  0.75 ctw; the clasp (female) end crystals are about 0.16 ct and 0.22 ct, and the primary (male) end crystals are about 0.18 ct and 0.19 ct, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of rock crystal
• Side Stone Shape:  Hand-faceted rondelle beads
• Side Stone Color:  Colorless
• Side Stone Clarity:  Transparent

• Side Stone Type:  Black Nephrite (again, tests as nephrite OR jadeite)
• Side Stone Count:  Two (2)
• Side Stone Dimensions:  The clasp (female) end nephrite measures about 1.53 x 4.69 mm, and the primary (male) end nephrite measures about 1.44 x 4.84 mm
• Side Stone Carat Weight:  0.49 ctw; the clasp (female) end nephrite is about 0.24 ct, and the primary (male) end nephrite is about 0.25 ct, as calculated by formula per the specific gravity of nephrite
• Side Stone Shape:  Hand-faceted rondelle beads
• Side Stone Color:  Black
• Side Stone Clarity:  Opaque with naturally waxy luster and high-polished surface finish

The Story:

Crafted during the height of the Art Deco period, this 1920s brooch features a mirrored geometric design devised of a striking arrangement of gemstones. This style pin is known as both a jabot pin, a term describing the ornamental fabric at the neckline of a man or woman’s garment that is often pleated or ruffled. Originally, these kinds of brooches were meant to be pinned horizontally across the collar points, in front of the collar band, to connect the lapels or coat at the neck. The effect of this orientation meant that the brooch's stem could be hidden beneath the fabric to give the appearance of “floating” matching jeweled ends on both collar points, stylishly securing a cravat or ascot, coat or cape.

It is believed that jabot pins have their roots in designs created in 1927 by the famed jewelry house, Cartier. Just like stick pins, these brooch styles were popular amongst both men and women during the first quarter and a half of the 20th century, contrary to the common misperception that brooches were exclusively a woman’s accessory. Rather, such glittering embellishments were badges of status, and enhanced and added variety to one’s wardrobe. As time went on, the look of jabots were fashionably reimagined to a vertical orientation worn on one lapel or the other. Likewise, their dual make ensured that they could be worn as two separate jewels or split up to wear as a single jewel.

This brooch is wonderfully sized and uniquely large, a classic and clean design that reflects the strong geometries for which the Jazz Age is much beloved. Both ends feature open annular carnelian discs, complemented by a pair of refined round black nephrite beads and further punctuated by a series of dazzling faceted beads of clear rock crystal and black nephrite. These eight total beads are fully articulated and can swivel en-mount. They are secured within matching white gold settings, each end carefully hand-engraved with linework and shapes that enliven the piece with the best of Art Deco design. The outermost ends recall fleur-de-lis forms, ultra stylized to capture the angularity of the flower's petals.

The open annular shape treated to the carnelian is historically significant in its relationship to ancient brooches of the Vikings, Celts and Romans, which were used to fasten cloaks and garments. These brooches were functional indeed, yet also conveyed symbols of strength, protection, status and wealth.

Like all jewelry, this brooch is imbued with rich meanings: The fleur-de-lis is a symbol of French royalty and as well as a symbol of the Holy Trinity, of perfect unity and purity. Thus, the fleur-de-lis has become associated with partnership, of dedicated affection and growth. When jewelry exhibits a duo of symbols-- in this case the mirrored nature of the brooch's design-- the security of partnership is honored, as the use of pairs speaks to the notions of chosen affection, unity and undying devotion. The carnelian components evoke the silhouette of the crescent moon, which has long been perceived as a nurturing and watchful eye, a motherly protective agent for its wearer, and bears affiliation with feminine energy, birth cycles, connectedness, fertility and fortune.